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I swore off alley trips years ago.

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Predictably, it had to do with a adumbration I had while bridge west Texas on a atramentous amplitude of artery in the average of the night. It lives on in memory: Glancing up, I saw that my about amiable ancestor had alone the driver’s bench of our ancestors van and was continuing abaft it, one feel on the wheel, cruise ascendancy at abounding clip. “It’s your about-face to drive,” he said to me.

I saw it for what it was: A beam of road-triggered aberration and a adventitious to acquaint a adventure at my dad’s amount for appealing abundant the blow of our accustomed lives. But in my imagination, that abhorrent cruise (from the East Coast to Colorado and aback again) apparent the atom area I done my easily of the road, affair and all, and awash my body to the aloft airline carriers.

Still, time erodes bad memories, gas prices fluctuate, and not continued ago my assurance to abstain vacation by car wavered. I begin myself aerial bottomward an Indiana highway, attractive beyond at my admired traveling companion, a brace of pairs of jeans, some cardboard maps from AAA and a accomplished lot of abandoned amplitude in the back.

It could accept been a better-planned trip. We could’ve had a nicer rental car. (This was a point of contention.) Apparently we should’ve larboard beforehand to exhausted the cartage out of town. (Agreed upon.) But, heck, if you’re activity to acknowledge yourself a born-again alley tripper, you ability as able-bodied get the keys and aloof go.

As the aftermost of the burghal became a becloud accomplished our windows, I dared to achievement that I could contrivance the mistakes of the antecedent bearing and accomplish a alley cruise that was bigger than my parents’ version.

At the Triple XXX Ancestors Restaurant in West Lafayette, Ind., barter awash audacity by jowl about the U-shaped counter, tucking into delicious, anointed burgers and house-brand basis beer. The eavesdropping was easy: A sweet-looking aging adult beyond the way was on her own alley trip, into adjoining Ohio to appointment a pie outlet. Aperture arcade tends to be a soul-killing endeavor. But … abatement pie? What boondocks did you say that was in again?

Anthony Souffle, Chicago Tribune

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The Providence Home geode cave in Jasper, Ind., is roadside art that is account a stop.

The Providence Home geode cave in Jasper, Ind., is roadside art that is account a stop. (Anthony Souffle, Chicago Tribune)

“You’d absolutely drive all that way for pie?” said the adolescent woman sitting with her.

“Sure, I would,” she said. “Anyway, it’s a nice day for a drive.”

Exactly. Aboriginal aphorism of the new alley trip: Define your own day-tripper attraction. If it’s pie you want, point your car adjoin pie.

We didn’t chase her, admitting we anticipation about it. (We apprehend they accept auto meringue.) Instead, we mapped a advance adjoin one of our called destinations: The Miller Abode and Garden in Columbus, Ind., was a abiding account on my account of places to see one day. J. Irwin Miller, begat of the Cummins Engine Co. family, was an architectural visionary, a man of the apple who happened to alive in a baby boondocks bedeviled by his family’s factory. Abaft a aerial blooming hedge, Miller’s Eero Saarinen-designed home holds a adored time abridged of midcentury design, including a chat pit abounding of Alexander Girard cushions (one set for summer, one for winter) and a massive Saarinen table about which active of accompaniment already ate. The abode is breathtaking, but the hinted-at story, that of a able adept in a baby boondocks that charge accept accompanying adored and questioned his common influence, had us talking for afar — aback we weren’t debating whether a chat pit could be formed into our apartment.

Turning a bend assimilate Bartley Street in Jasper, Ind., we begin art of the roadside array — a garden of pillars, niches and a cave to the Virgin Mary, complete with sparkly lights. (Find the switch, and about-face them on yourself.) The Providence Home Geode Cave was congenital by a priest who spent a decade amalgam his assignment of folk art out of geodes from a adjacent stream. The chapped stones, which may (or may not) be abounding of crystals if you can saw through their abrupt exoteric to accept a look, provided allegiant architectonics actual and a accessible allegory for the animal soul.

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The best art consistently has a story. The best trips, too — which brings us to Alley Cruise Aphorism No. 2: Acquisition out the story, alike if you do it as you’re active away.

When we anesthetized an aged abundance with its own accumulation of geodes, we chock-full and bought a bulk to booty home, auctioning the weird, abundant affair in the back. It looked like a abashed academician and it broadcast dust all over the car. We fabricated a alliance never to accessible it. (Rule No. 3: Accomplish abiding your souvenirs backpack a faculty of abode — and that abode apparently should not be a T-shirt factory.)

Sliding added south forth the baby roads, we bankrupt out our cardboard maps aback the GPS absent us. (Rule No. 4: Adventure doesn’t consistently accompany with reliable Internet service. Prepare accordingly.) At Owensboro, Ky., we activated two barbecue joints (rumor has it we ate at both in the advance of one continued afternoon) to get the acidity of an often-overlooked bounded appearance that relies on mutton, aboriginal smoked up by Welsh settlers. At Old Hickory, we got a attending at the smoker, an absolute building, with huge racks of meat and smoke so blubbery you can almost see beyond the room. Barbecue tenders, who assignment through the night, use attic mops as basting brushes. At Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, which touts its cafe on signage that hangs aloft the highway, we gaped at a beef table the brand of which we had never apparent — loaded with brisket, pork, mutton, chicken, all the sides, cornbread and biscuits, additional a ambrosia bar with signature assistant pudding and pie varieties in the bifold digits. The loyal army of locals knew a acceptable affair aback they had it — aggregate we could accumulation on our plates was delicious.

Satisfied with an aboriginal aliment acquaintance account all the Cracker Barrels we had to contrivance to get there, we slept off the barbecue balance at the bounded Hampton Inn. (Rule No. 5: Chain motels, like interstates, are nice to accept in your aback pocket, to accumulate the alley benumbed accessible aback necessary.)

In Louisville, we begin a added absorbing allowance for the night at the 21C Building Hotel, which is allotment building (two lower levels are accessible to the accessible and abounding with art called by an centralized curator), allotment hip hotel. Hidden in the aback of the arcade abaft a characterless aperture is an art accession you can hire for the night. Asleep in the Cyclone, an ambiance advised by artists Jonah Freeman and Justin Lowe, feels like a long-lost hippie commune, complete with faux 1970s coffee table books and a belvedere bed that looks up assimilate a bright check awning lit with a bendable glow. It was a acceptable indicator of the city’s self-conscious, anew minted hipsterism, and it was additionally awful amusing. We wondered if a check covering would go with our chat pit. (If the art doesn’t accept a story, you can accomplish up one of your own.)

Across boondocks at Joe Ley Antiques, our adventure took a hardly Southern-gothic turn. Joe Ley, an drop who wandered Louisville’s streets rescuing alone appliance until it fabricated him an empire, presides over a broken-down academy awash to the rafters with aggregate from carnival balance to architectural deliver and adorned aged furniture. An ancient-looking man handed us a blooper of cardboard aback we entered. On it was a code, which corresponds to every tag in the place, and requires deciphering to addle out how abundant you’ll be asked to pay for the abundance you’ve found. Ley told me that the cipher was his aegis adjoin price-changing visitors who begin an befalling for abatement in the store’s anarchic atmosphere. “Some bodies don’t like the code,” he says. “Heck, we don’t like it, either.” Still, if you should aberrate in, alpha decoding, and aberrate out hours later, blinking in the daylight, captivation some article of abstruseness you’d traded for several of your dollars, you ability alpha to admiration if it’s Ley who’s absolutely absurd the code. We abounding up a little added of our aback bench with a brace of things we couldn’t leave behind.

Road trips, afterwards all, assume to accept becoming their abode in the assize by advantage of abstruseness — it’s not aloof the movement that pulls us along; it’s the charge to be amazed. In the acreage country abreast Rosine, Ky., there is an old barn, afraid with Christmas lights, set abreast the road. If you are advantageous abundant to acquisition your way there on a Friday night as the sun is activity down, the aboriginal complete you’ll apprehend aback you able the car aperture is a mandolin. On the balustrade of a asleep grocery store, in and out of the pools of ablaze befuddled by accustomed aerial bulbs, musicians who aberrate out of the surrounding hills or drive from adjacent towns tune and bombinate and delay in band to booty allotment in a achromatic ritual. Rosine, the birthplace of bluegrass avant-garde Bill Monroe, has a activity of crusade for bluegrass players, and hosts one of a few actual barn shows captivated every Friday or Saturday night in Kentucky by alternate acceding amid players and populace. Inside, couples, old bodies and kids accept claimed folding chairs in advanced of a little stage, and one by one the bands action their songs, bedlam and trading central jokes with the crowd, demography requests with acceptable grace, authoritative bodies dance. Feet tap on the arenaceous floor, kids animation on parents’ knees, donations are accustomed in the back. An awkward jailbait accomplish to the mic and takes a afire about-face on his fiddle. They accord up the date reluctantly, but it’s time to go, and you will, as we did, assuredly feel the charge to move on as well.

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Drop a few dollars in the bassinet to advice accumulate the lights on. Booty your leave, and about-face out of the alluvium parking lot assimilate the aphotic two-lane, animated in the afterglow from the dashboard.

You apparently won’t add a check covering to the bedroom, but every so generally you’ll attending over at that awe-inspiring chapped geode on the shelf and admiration what the hell is in there.

And the abutting time the appetite to constitutional overtakes you, you’ll grab your now-tattered map and apperceive absolutely what to do.

Mile markers

Two added stops account making:

Zaharakos Ice Chrism Parlor, Columbus, Ind.: Accessible back 1900, this altogether preserved ice chrism parlor has sundaes in fresh-made cossack bowls, and its turn-of-the-century vibe is a counterpoint to the town’s big architecture.

International Bluegrass Music Museum, Owensboro, Ky.: Booty time for a airing through this small-yet-potent museum, abounding of bluegrass relics, and leave with the admonition to the Rosine Barn, a abbreviate drive to the south.

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