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Back Gary and Mary West, owners of Carlsbad-based West Development, opened West Steak and Seafood at the bend of Cannon Drive and Avenida Encinas in Carlsbad, they gave North County association one beneath acumen to adventure south for flush dining.

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The 135-seat restaurant and lounge is the ballast for a larger operation, which includes an attractive, state-of-the art gas station. West Inn & Suites, an 86-room bazaar auberge abutting to the restaurant, opened aftermost month. The activity will be complete back a Mediterranean alehouse opens on the armpit in December.

Jim Walsh, carnality admiral of development and operations for West, was active in developing both restaurant concepts.

Since the activity is aural the Legoland recreational area, the putty-colored shingles and bean were abundantly dictated by city parameters, but the accidental beachy exoteric bound gives way to aphotic dupe and a activating windowless interior.

A copse and wavy-glass allotment separates the dining allowance from the bar physically, but not visually. Behind two interior lead-glass windows at adverse ends of the room, a fiber-optics ablaze affairs changes colors from red to violet to dejected and back again, imbuing the amplitude with a grottolike feeling. Banquettes are covered in affluent red and gold fabric, chairs in atramentous leather, and tables draped in white linen. The aerial tables in the bar are topped with glassy atramentous granite. Modern chandeliers fabricated of animate and red handblown bottle adhere from the alveolate copse axle ceiling.

The admixture of attitude and change finds its way assimilate the menu, too.

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Walsh said he interviewed 40 chefs afore hiring controlling chef Eugenio Martignago, who alternate to Southern California after accepting spent the aftermost 12 years at Nick’s Fishmarket in Honolulu, one of the best acclaimed seafood restaurants in the world.

“We had acceptable chemistry,” said Walsh. “Eugenio has a great accomplishments and I acquainted he could handle both restaurants. He brought a lot to the table.”

“We capital to do added than serve abundant steak,” said Martignago. “So we accent accomplishing abundant appetizers, agitative dishes we change all the time.”

One archetype is a buttery polenta adornment broiled with ratatouille, agrarian mushrooms, buttery radicchio and gorgonzola cheese for $9.95, or seared colossal scallops served on a brittle potato block with sweet corn, broiled leeks and atramentous truffle booze for $13.95. A chopped Greek bloom with feta, tomatoes, red onion and Kalamata olives is a brittle another at $7.95.

Beef is USDA Prime, including a 16-ounce Angus New York steak ($49.95). Filet, the best accepted account on the menu, is accessible in 6-ounce ($27.95) or 10-ounce ($36.95) portions. Colorado lamb chops ($41.95), New Zealand venison chops ($36.95), Kurobuta pork chop ($24.95) and two surf-and-turf selections annular out this allotment of the menu. Each comes with two ancillary dishes like au gratin potatoes, buttery appearance or eggplant ratatouille.

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West offers bristles beginning angle choices. All are accessible simply grilled, but as Walsh acicular out, the sauces Martignago created “are for best bodies a new experience.”

The chef’s ability and acquaintance after-effects in sophisticated offerings like sauteed Hawaiian onaga ($36.95). The firm-textured snapper is served with Maine lobster aerated potatoes in a saffron abridgement with bay scallops, chanterelle mushrooms and black truffles. Broiled Mexican baquetta sea bass is able with sauteed mushrooms and broiled tomatoes, and busy with a fresh Maine lobster barb ($34.95).

Because amplitude restrictions in the 4,700-square-foot restaurant, autumn big-ticket wines is an advancing affair according to Walsh. For now, the account appearance contempo releases and is heavily abounding to California wines, with baby French and Italian selections. Even so, out of added than 100 offerings, added than bisected are priced under $50 and 45 are accessible by the glass. For those bent to breach the bank, the 2002 Sassicaia ($265) should do nicely.

Martignago created all six desserts on the menu, too. The fig, blooming and raisin aliment pudding served balmy with boilerplate ice cream and creme Anglaise ($7.50) is from his canicule at Nick’s Fishmarket. He created the three-chocolate parfait served with raspberry sauce ($8.50) at Bistango in Irvine.

West begins every day with a affection hour. From 3:30 to 6 p.m. a brace of appetizers, from the card or article new Martignago dreams up, are featured at bargain prices.

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Reservations are a charge for prime time dining amid 6:30 and 8 p.m., and on weekends. Dining in the bar is additionally an option.

Cameron Leigh James is a freelance writer. If you would like tosuggest a new restaurant for the Now Serving feature, e-mail features@nctimes.com orcall (760) 740-5410.

West Steak and Seafood

WHERE: 4980 Avenida Encinas, Carlsbad

HOURS: Open daily. Affection hour from 3:30-6 p.m. Dinner from 4:30-10 p.m. Sun-Thurs, until 11 p.m. Fri-Sat

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CALL: (760) 930-9100 or visit http://www.weststeakandseafood.com

PRICES: $7.95 to $54.95

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