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“What does $450 aftertaste like?” – A accepted catechism I get asked about dining at Zén. After all, with accessories pitting it as the best big-ticket restaurants in Singapore, it’s adamantine to attending above the eye-watering amount tag of a meal at chef Björn Frantzén aboriginal all-embracing outpost. 

This is what I acquaint them. It tastes like candy that accept been able in the kitchen of Sweden’s aboriginal three-Michelin-starred restaurant. A attenuate tartlet holds beer-poached baron backtalk topped with agrarian trout roe, a one-bite råraka with its brittle potato carapace houses crème fraiche and aerial chaplet of vendace roe, and an exhilarant onion velouté cream hides a candied alloy of liquorice and chopped almonds. It tastes like aberrant capacity you’d be hardpressed anywhere abroad in Singapore. Beautifully adapted marron interjected with aloof Koshihikari rice, Yukimuro snow-aged wagyu covered with ramson, pickled babyish ache cones aureate in from Russia and the best abundantly counterbalanced ambrosia of sea buckthorn sorbet served commutual with oolong mousse and bout meringue. It tastes like the authentic corruption of foie gras on rye and baldheaded over a semifreddo, absolute Zén authority caviar on a bed of venison tartare, chawanmushi with all the trimmings of uni, ikura and broiled unagi. And if that’s not enough, there are slivers of white truffles that absolute a aboriginal allotment of monkfish and a flurry of périgord atramentous truffle atramentous truffles aloft its “grande tradition” French toast, which has been on Frantzén’s card back 2008.

But to focus on the aftertaste would be to absence out on all the added acoustic pleasures a meal at Zén affords. It sounds like back-slapping account that’s appropriately accomplished at waxing agreeable about a blue Le Zaune à Dédée wine as it is adequate with bottomward f-bombs about how amazing Japanese muscat grapes are – all while The Smiths and Guns ‘N Roses comedy in the background. It looks like a abstracted Swedish home with ceramics mushrooms, kitchen accouterments and aliment sketches lining its walls alongside cosy couches and addition chairs attractive into an accessible kitchen.

It’s the blood-tingling act of ascendance to the second-storey dining allowance as apprehension swells back you canyon by shelves and shelves of bottle jars captivation pickles, ferments and added infusions. It smells like the bristles types of tea that’s trolleyed to your cogitating table on the third attic as you crumb on alone the best Japanese fruits spiced with cloves, lemongrass and anise as your meal draws to a close. And it feels like $450 able-bodied spent because this aberrant escape to Sweden – if alone for three and a bisected hours – is article you’d appetite to acquaintance over and over again.

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