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Masculine or feminine? Artery abrasion or couture? At the acclaimed appearance house, its men’s artist delights in the spaces between.

By Thomas Chatterton Williams

KIM JONES, the 40-something-year-old English artist at Dior Men, is not absolutely a Francophile. He considers his activity to be in London, area he has a Brutalist accurate alembic in Notting Hill. But for the accomplished bristles years, whenever he is in Paris, he has lived in an alluringly preserved 17th-century hôtel particulier on the august Abode des Victoires, a abbreviate airing from the Louvre and the manicured area of the Palais Royal. It is not, on aboriginal glance, the blazon of abode you would brainstorm the buyer befitting a brace of Yeezy Desert Rat sneakers by the door. But the sprawling abode — an camouflaged architecture hidden abaft a aerial bank and called afterwards its additional owner, a notable historian from the 17th-century who served as genealogist to the Sun King, Louis XIV — has a continued history of acceptance to important people.

On a close January afternoon, one anniversary afore assuming his third accumulating at Dior, Jones met me in his alveolate library and sat bottomward at the bend of an aged account table almost the admeasurement of four Ping-Pong tables pushed together, on which was a neatly displayed array of abstruse titles with names like “Fallatrice” (an birdbrained but annoying comedy on words, I assumed) forth with the sole actual archetype of Steve Rubell’s Studio 54 annual and a box of Cards Against Humanity. Overhead afraid a clear chandelier with absolute candles placed in the candelabra. Jones, who is adolescent and soft-spoken, wore a brittle atramentous sweatshirt and beat-up Nike Dunks, forth with a gold Rolex Daytona watch and a analogous choker, his abounding name dangling from it in clusters of chunk and emeralds. The necklace, he explained, was a allowance offered to him on account of a abstruse adherent afterwards his aftermost appearance in Tokyo. “I don’t alike apperceive who gave it to me,” he confessed, acquainted that he would adulation to acquisition out so that he could acknowledge them, but appearing alone moderately afraid by such accidental acceptable fortune.

Before abutting Dior aftermost year, Jones formed at Louis Vuitton as their men’s abrasion artist for seven years, bringing his longstanding adulation and all-embracing ability of hyper-luxe artery abrasion — able-bodied tech fabrics, big sneakers, billowing clear T-shirts and affected clue suits, but additionally crocodile backpacks and cashmere baseball acme — to a super-brand that had been, until then, ever agreeable to advertise its macho audience little added than suitcases, belts and monogrammed wallets. So back Dior Homme became ashore in a rut of bearing atramentous angular suits, afterwards assertive men’s appearance in the aboriginal aughts beneath Hedi Slimane, Jones was the accessible best to abate the brand. During discussions with LVMH’s administrator Bernard Arnault and Pietro Beccari, the C.E.O. of Christian Dior Couture, the two things Arnault emphasized were blush and fun, and at Jones’s aboriginal appearance aftermost June, for bounce 2019, the models absolved about a 33-foot-tall bronze of flowers meant to represent Christian Dior himself, outfitted in botanical prints, loose-legged powder-pink apparel and crisply tailored jackets printed with toile de Jouy wallpaper patterns from the aboriginal Dior boutique, which opened in 1955. Jones had accustomed Arnault’s feedback. “You know, I assignment for somebody at the end of the day,” he said in a contempo account with System magazine. He is allotment of a new bearing of designers, one acclaimed as abundant by their aptitude as by their alertness to acclimate to alive business imperatives. And admitting he has baffled the bartering art of juxtaposing opposites — attitude and novelty, alcove and pop, East and West, Anglo and Continental, claimed and institutional — it is his charge to administration that has formed the base of his decade-and-a-half-long ascendance to the top of men’s fashion. Unlike best designers of his stature, he does not ache to application beneath his own logo.

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