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”ACAPULCO is back, sexier than ever,” declares one of the entrepreneurs abaft the super-cool Auberge Boca Chica, Carlos Couturier. We’re administration watermelon margaritas, platters of adolescent ceviche and ambrosial soft-shell backtalk rolls at the hotel’s accomplished Japanese-inflected restaurant, a laid-back, bank activity black by a huge close palapa.

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Here, far from the bang and bullwork of the awfully abominable day-tripper strip, it’s difficult to brainstorm that the burghal fell so acutely out of favour with the jet set: air-conditioned yachts dwarf the colourful fishing boats and the ablaze lights of La Roqueta Island ball in the distance.

Acapulco, as Couturier explains, was absolutely due for a makeover. Combining the amazing cartography of Monaco with a Latin soul, Acapulco – aboriginal acclimatized by the Aztecs and afterwards adapted from asleep fishing association to aircraft hub – was destined to be a star. And as anyone accustomed with the mechanics of Hollywood knows, stars draw in added stars and Acapulco drew them all: Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, John Wayne, the Kennedys, Rita Hayworth, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin. The alloy of escapist architecture, alluring hotels sculpted into asperous bluff acme and a acquiescent affair action accepted irresistible. The resort has been immortalised in songs, TV shows, movies and plays such as Tennessee Williams’s The Night of the Iguana. The airy allure and beauteous accustomed backdrop, captured alluringly in several Slim Aarons photographs, wasn’t to last. By the 1970s Liz, Dick et al alone the resort for added admirable shores and Acapulco, added attainable from Mexico City, fell victim to accumulation tourism: animal towers, bargain shopfronts casting all-you-can-drink arctic margaritas and trashy, neon-lit clubs.

But alike the best done amateur can accomplish a comeback. And Acapulco seems to be accomplishing aloof that with a clamp of air-conditioned hotels, absurd restaurants and design-conscious boutiques. Boca Chica, the newest and coolest of the bunch, opened backward aftermost year afterwards a diffuse renovation. The auberge – the latest activity from the Habita group, accepted for its affordable and hipster-friendly hotels throughout Mexico – blends the spirit of homesickness with the comforts of a first-rate bazaar hotel.

It has been a accident hit. ”We capital to bottle the aboriginal feel of the auberge but at the aforementioned time accompany it to 2010,” Couturier says. The 1954-built modernist building, acutely featured in the Elvis Presley blur Fun in Acapulco, in which he plays a above aerobatics artisan abashed of heights, had abundant bones, alike afterwards two decades of disrepair. Habita broke Frida Escobedo and Jose Rojas to redesign the accessible spaces and bedfellow rooms, giving them the apple-pie feel of a Habita auberge but abacus an airy wink.

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”We bought best appliance during three years in flea markets in Mexico and got affluence of afflatus from old photos from the athenaeum of the hotel,” Couturier says. ”We custom-ordered the ceramics from an old Colombian branch and bought an old baiter to booty our guests above to La Roqueta Island or booty them waterskiing. We appetite to accompany aback the allure of this admirable bay.”

You can acquaint the owners accept paid accurate absorption to the on-site restaurant, which is abreast the requisite kidney-shaped basin (is there any added affectionate in Acapulco?). Helmed by chef Keisuke Harada, who formed at Bond St, New York’s temple of sushi, the kitchen turns out Latin interpretations of Japanese dishes and has a abounding sushi bar and takeaway counter.

The aliment is delicious, sourced from beginning bounded capacity and composed with thought; it’s aloof the affectionate of aliment you appetite to be bistro on a warm-weather holiday. Activity is so advised aural Boca Chica’s anxiously art-directed apple – the costly bedding, historically accurate architecture capacity – that activity above the aboideau can feel chaotic.

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The burghal is home to added than 750,000 bodies and hasn’t been allowed to Mexico’s adverse narco-violence, with the burghal actualization in a cardinal of recent, abominable headlines. While the agitation absolutely isn’t acceptable for business, bounded tourism experts point out that the abandon hasn’t afflicted any adopted tourism and, by and large, the company feels safe.

Architecturally, Acapulco is a behemothic pastiche. From accession to colonial Spanish, the amazing accomplishments has aggressive barrio of abundant appearance and adroitness as able-bodied as affluence of blunders. In the hills surrounding Boca Chica there are several low-slung modernist homes that attending as if they’ve been arid for years.

I was afraid to apprentice that one of my favourite architects, John Lautner, advised a all-inclusive weekend retreat for a affluent Mexican family. Resembling a James Bond-style lair, the house, amidst by a two-metre-wide moat, resembles a behemothic mollusk aperture up to absorb in the amazing angle of Acapulco Bay and the Pacific Ocean.

Elsewhere, the artful generally dips into close kitsch territory. One black we set out forth the Escenica, the city’s breathtaking highway, which ribbons through the hills like LA’s Mulholland Drive. Afterwards declining to get a table at Becco Al Mare, the chichi see-and-be-seen Italian restaurant that has become acutely accepted with Mexico’s affluent and famous, we end up at Bellavista, the restaurant at Las Brisas, a acclaimed old auberge at the southern end of Acapulco Bay.

Despite its contempo renovation, during which the apartment were redesigned and rid of their Pepto-Bismol-pink glassy bathrobes, the abode still has a Joan Collins vibe address of the blush jeeps, piano amateur and free-flowing blush margaritas. Laugh if you charge but there’s no arguing that the hotel’s appearance of the horseshoe-shaped bay is adamantine to match.

Another artful band was alien with the accession of Banyan Tree Cabo Marques, a contempo accession to the auberge scene, congenital from blemish on the classy Zona Diamante. The Pacific Coast of Mexico may assume like an abrupt best for the Singapore-based accumulation accepted for its admirable Asian architecture and awe-inspiring spas but the auberge works marvellously. With mini carts on duke to bear you to your villa, agents who apperceive your name instantly and a abundant spa, there’s little to anguish about added than the catechism of area you will watch the dusk – from your massive hot tub or the villa’s clandestine attempt pool? This best retreat is absolute for couples, with its position carved into the bouldered coastline.

Back at Boca Chica, afterwards a bent day of lunch, sunbathing and cocktails, we adjudge to booty the hotel’s baiter for a circuit to La Quebrada, the armpit of the acclaimed bluff divers. Here is one day-tripper ritual that’s not acceptable to go anywhere anon – the afterimage of a diver leaping 40 metres into a attenuated basin is mesmerising, decidedly back witnessed by boat.

When we acknowledgment to the resort, the affair has begun. A DJ from Spain takes to the decks and the internationally, absolutely alluring army is anon dancing.

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”The acceptable Acapulco is a mix of Tel Aviv, Rio, Punta del Este [Uruguay] or Beirut,” Couturier says, ”all of them in one distinct space”. As the black apprehension into the aboriginal hours and the music goes from loud to bone-rattling, it is adamantine to disagree with him.

Three (other) things to do

1. Old Acapulco Dip into the city’s affluent history with a appointment to Acapulco’s celebrated core, which appearance aisle restaurants, a active zocalo (main square), gift stands and bounded mariachi bands.

2. Dolores Olmedo Abode Once the home of one of Mexico’s better art patrons, this clandestine home is area the artisan Diego Rivera anesthetized away. The home’s exoteric appearance the acclaimed muralist’s aftermost accomplished work, a delineation of an Aztec god.

3. Mercado Municipal There’s no curtailment of kitsch aural this bazaar favoured by the locals, positioned a little out of the way from the axial day-tripper zone. It’s account the trip: aberrate the bewilderment of vendors affairs bake-apple and vegetables; aces up an accurate pinata or aces from handmade souvenirs. Calle Diego Hurtado de Mendoza and Av. Constituyentes.

Trip notes

Getting there

United Airlines provides circadian ceaseless flights amid Sydney and Los Angeles. 131 777, unitedairlines.com.au. United and several added North American carriers accomplish flights from LA to Acapulco’s Alvarez International Airport, the majority via Mexico City.

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Getting around

The burghal appearance a decidedly able and easy-to-use bus system. All above car-rental companies are represented at the airport and if you do adjudge to accouterment the mad cartage of Acapulco, booty precautions and do not plan to esplanade anywhere abreast the centre of the city. Whenever possible, align transfers and excursions through your hotel.

Staying there

Acapulco hotels run the area from accurate best retreats to bare bank inns. The super-cool Auberge Boca Chica is positioned adjoining to Playa Caletilla (52 744 482 7879; hotel-bocachica.com, apartment from $US97.20, or $95.50, a night). For cher seclusion, assets a alcazar at Banyan Tree Cabo Marques, sited on the flush Zona Diamante (52 744 434 0100; banyantree.com, apartment from $US565 a night). Old-school, if hardly kitsch, allure reigns at Auberge las Brisas (52 744 469 6900; brisashotelonline.com, apartment from $US233 a night).

See Do

Acapulco’s best iconic attraction, the La Quebrada bluff defined (clavadistas), accomplish bristles times a day. Secure platforms action abundant angle of the spectacle, as does a table at the La Perla restaurant aural the El Mirador Hotel.

A 10-minute baiter ride from Caleta Beach, La Roqueta Island has hiking trails, accomplished accolade for snorkelling and a zoo with alien animals.

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