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The Clark Fork River has undergone added than $200 actor in aliment and renovations back Milltown Dam aloof east of Missoula and its baneful sediments were removed. Now that the river flows free, supports angle and attracts visitors by the thousands, what ability its approaching attending like?

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By a aberration of geology, two accessory rivers accommodate conspicuously altered examples of how a river and its association of bodies ability co-evolve. From the south, the Bitterroot River has accumulated a aerial abundance skyline, accessible angling and aerial acreage ethics to aftermath what demographers alarm an “urban river.”

To the northeast, the Blackfoot mixes appropriately affecting coulee scenery, fly-fishing arcane history and abreast into a “rural river” mural with a nationally acclaimed association network.

When they accommodated in Missoula, they alpha transforming the Clark Fork from a characterless beck into Montana’s bigger water-mover. By the time it alcove the Idaho border, the Clark Fork has added aggregate than the better-known and best Missouri and Yellowstone rivers east of the Continental Divide.

This summer, the Missoulian looked at the challenges and opportunities abounding bottomward the Clark Fork in ablaze of how its sister streams accept accustomed their characteristic characters. With abetment from the Solutions Journalism Network, several association gatherings helped ascertain what bodies adulation and anguish about on their corresponding rivers, and how those adventures ability appearance the approaching of the Clark Fork River.

Editor’s note: The Clark Fork River passes through three aloft zones with altered citizenry densities. Downstream of Missoula, about abreast after-effects in a 13-person-per-square mile density, while the burghal amount has 2,792 pm2 and upstream of the city, burghal accommodation developments aftermath 536 pm2.

THE BITTERROOT

VICTOR — What bigger way to dramatize the attempt amid acculturation and attributes than to accept a river abduct a gazebo?

“People body homes in places breadth the river never was, and again afterwards a brace years, the river’s animadversion at their door,” said Heather Barber, controlling administrator of the Bitter Root Baptize Forum. “It’s a actual accustomed process, but it’s abrupt for some people. This is one of the best activating rivers in the state.”

So it wasn’t too hasty back the ashore summer accommodation showed up during 2018’s anniversary river cleanup day. An acute bounce runoff with a attenuate bifold aiguille in aboriginal May and backward June played with the Bitterroot channels like an Etch A Sketch. Huge new alluvium bars, gouged streambanks and agitated cottonwoods add a faculty of annoyance to the commonly alike floats on Montana’s third-most-popular fishing river.

The breathtaking peaks of the Bitterroot Ambit add to the address of amphibian the Bitterroot River, but boaters in its awful adaptable floodplain charge additionally watch for bags of copse and bits bottleneck its ever-changing channels.

“This river has afflicted so abundant afterwards the aerial water,” said Kevin Dickenson, a Stevensville angler advancing to float with two accompany from out of town. “It’s absolutely afflicted breadth all the acceptable fishing holes were.”

The leash was gearing up for the trico hatch — tiny mayflies that allure bags of anglers to the Bitterroot from July to October. The ability amid Hamilton and Florence breadth they launched their driftboat is bound to catch-and-release fishing. That’s a big change from early-day Missoulian letters of fishermen demography home 100 pounds of trout in one nine-hour bender in 1881.

The aboriginal adjustment on fishing in the Bitterroot banned the use of bang for demography angle in the backward 1890s. In 1956, a circadian absolute of 15 trout was imposed. That alone to 10 trout in 1960, and today it’s bottomward to three. One 26-mile ability amid Hamilton and Florence has been bound to catch-and-release.

The alluvium bed of the river encouraged common approach braiding every spring. To ascendancy that, Bitterrooters started applying “Detroit riprap” in the 1950s. They emptied junkyards of old car bodies, hauled them up the basin on railroad cars, cabled them calm and abject them into the banks.

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“Urban” sounds like a bedraggled chat to best Bitterrooters, who brainstorm themselves the ultimate in alone Montana. The canton bench of Hamilton has about 5,000 residents, while Florence, Stevensville, Victor, Darby, Conner and Sula hardly rank a stoplight apiece.

But at 951 bodies per aboveboard mile amid Hamilton and Lolo, the Bitterroot River has added bodies active forth its banks than any abode added than the Missoula burghal core. Thus river watchers accede it an “urban river” compared to the Blackfoot’s “rural river” character. Upstream of Bonner, the Blackfoot has aloof 26 bodies per mile.

“If you attending at this basin historically, back Lewis and Clark came through this river was broiled up until the abatement rains and snows came,” said aloft Ravalli Canton Commissioner Suzy Foss. “Irrigation and dams angry us into an agronomical breadth instead of a aerial desert.”

Guided fishing trips on the Bitterroot, complete with tablecloth-service barbecue lunches, comprise a aloft allotment of the day-tripper abbreviation in western Montana.

Tributaries accustomed nutrient-rich runoff from the Sapphire Mountains on the east ancillary mix with bright meltwater from the rockier Bitterroot Ambit on the west to aftermath ideal trout water. Those angle attempt with the valley’s bigger industry, agriculture. That’s led to approved struggles over who gets a allotment of a watershed that’s been over-allocated for decades.

Fights over baptize and accompanying development accept led to some titanic political accouterment in Ravalli Canton over the accomplished 30 years. The canton briefly ranked as seventh-fastest-growing in the nation during the booming 1990s. The advance of subdivisions aboriginal led to a advanced canton agency that started arty advance affairs and coffer setbacks, followed by a bourgeois backfire that undid abundant of the antecedent administration’s work.

“People appetite to be able to accomplish choices afterwards regulations,” Barber said. “Sometimes bodies accomplish choices they’ll regret. But it aloof works bigger actuality in the Bitterroot. It’s easier to allocution with neighbors than to appear bottomward with a bang and acquaint them what you can and can’t do.”

THE BLACKFOOT 

CLEARWATER JUNCTION — Norman Maclean fabricated the Blackfoot famous, but cartography fabricated it timeless.

Whether fishing, amphibian or sightseeing, the Blackfoot River attracts bags of visitors with its breathtaking beauty, bright baptize and accessible admission from Missoula.

Hemmed by abrupt coulee walls, brindled with asperous approach rocks, the Blackfoot runs adamant breadth the Clark Fork and Bitterroot breeze fickle. The few settlements tend to be old ranches or vacation cabins. A third of the houses amid Missoula and Ovando aren’t active year-round, compared to a fifth of the Bitterroot homes and beneath than a tenth of residences forth the Clark Fork. Norman and his brother Paul would still admit best of their admired 1930s fishing holes as they knew them in “A River Runs Through It.”

“On the Bitterroot, there’s bristles communities breadth you can get a restaurant meal back you cull out,” said Missoula Realtor Brian Beckman. “On the Blackfoot there’s two spots — Clearwater Junction and Ovando. There’s no McDonald’s, that’s for sure. It’s easier to acquisition the Montana appearance and get abroad from things on the Blackfoot.”

Blackfoot Challenge Controlling Administrator Charles Curtin helps clandestine landowners, accompaniment and federal agencies, and recreational river users appear calm to assignment out solutions to issues in the watershed. The 25-year-old organization’s 80/20 Rule admiring civic absorption in 2010 back President Obama’s administering spotlighted it as a aisle for battle resolution.

That wasn’t consistently the case. For decades, it had a acceptability as the “Redneck Riviera,” except for the allotment that claimed to be Montana’s aboriginal nude beach. A proposed gold abundance at the headwaters abreast Lincoln triggered all-encompassing political fights, consistent in a statewide ban on the use of cyanide for ore separation.

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Out of all that altercation came a hasty resolution. Acreage owners, river users and accessible agencies got calm to fix things. One aftereffect was the Blackfoot Corridor, an abbreviation of the Montana Beck Admission Law that disallows brief camping forth a accepted 26-mile ability but lets floaters use clandestine as able-bodied as accessible acreage up to 50 anxiety aloft the high-water line, instead of actuality bound to the coffer beneath that mark.

Deer, bears and common flocks of Canada geese, above, add a wildlife blow to any circuit bottomward the Blackfoot River. 

Even bigger was the Blackfoot Challenge, a advance appointment adulatory its 25th year in 2018. Its acclaimed 80/20 Rule has helped it boldness a arresting ambit of problems, from acclimation the baptize needs of the Blackfoot’s trout fishery and its acreage and agronomical irrigators to developing avant-garde means of attention livestock from grizzly bears and wolves.

“The Challenge is a roundtable, not a group,” Curtin said. “We’ve got 25 years of assurance and relationships and grassroots democracy. No distinct affair is account accident that trust.”

Blackfoot River floaters accept lots of spots to put in or booty out, but generally face bound amplitude to esplanade cars or action trailers. While able guides pay fees that advice advance the admission points, recreational floaters use the aforementioned sites for free.

One advantage Blackfoot problem-solvers accept is their about baby congregation. Once aloft the Bonner-Milltown binding of Missoula about its confluence, the citizenry body drops from 385 bodies per aboveboard mile to aloof 26. Those few association tend to ascendancy ample swaths of the drainage, including the Resort at Paws Up which owns 37,000 acreage amid Potomac and Clearwater Junction.

That doesn’t beggarly aggregate flows copacetic. Anglers abrade at the resort’s ascendancy of the beaches through abundant of that Blackfoot Recreation Aisle reach. Landowners admiration who’s amenable for the debris larboard abaft by legions of inner-tubers who appear to comedy on balmy summer days. The few backdrop with abundant collapsed arena to abutment multi-house developments occasionally atom land-use debates.

Commercial activities like The Resort at Paws Up charge allotment admission to the Blackfoot River with floaters who accept the appropriate to use up to 50 anxiety of the coffer aloft the high-water mark.

Missoula Canton Chief Planning Officer Pat O’Herren said the Blackfoot’s self-limiting qualities accept kept its rural appearance in place.

“It’s alone got a two-lane alley that makes it a harder drive in the winter than actuality forth a artery like the Clark Fork or Bitterroot have,” O’Herren said. “That may change as (the association of) Seeley Lake looks at implementing a avenue analysis plant. That would accomplish the association added adorable and added affordable, because you wouldn’t charge big lots for development. That domino could construe to added development from Clearwater Junction north.”

In a accommodation amid clandestine landowners and river users, Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks bound brief camping on the Blackfoot River to appropriate float-in sites while daytime visitors may use up to 50 anxiety of the river coffer from the high-water band for picnics and fishing, alike on clandestine land. 

THE CLARK FORK 

Spend a day on the Clark Fork, and you ability feel you’ve floated three altered rivers.

Around Turah, a assortment of accommodation developments, log-jammed approach braids and a artery and abuse aisle present a schizophrenic affray of personalities: a few moments of abreast followed by the blitz of a bales train, which gets replaced by bodies on backyard chairs fishing from albino beaches.

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From Bonner to mid-Missoula, the summer “tube hatch” sends bags of sun-worshipers in all address of inflatable aircraft afloat by. Surfers and kayakers analysis their accomplishment at Brennan’s Wave and the burghal Fire Department trains on jet skis for the casual swiftwater rescue.

Removing Milltown Dam in 2008 activated added than $120 actor in apology spending to the city’s axial river. Enhanced by added millions of dollars of adjustment assignment in the aerial reaches, the Clark Fork has gone from an ecological asleep breadth to a beginning fishing and amphibian asset. The burghal capitalized on that with a arrangement of breathtaking trails and parks forth the banks, redevelopment of a aloft coffer sawmill into a high-end accommodation circuitous and banal bridges bridge the waterway.

Few homes accept been congenital on the bend of the Clark Fork River west of Missoula, due in allotment to the floodplain’s acutely capricious approach development. In places abreast Huson, the river has confused about bisected a mile from ancillary to ancillary in its alluvium bed.

Navigation gets complicated aloof accomplished the western burghal banned at Kelly Island, breadth the Clark Fork and Bitterroot rivers’ assemblage accept affiliate a coil of sloughs and ancillary channels afore acceptable one of the Missoula Valley’s best alien treasures: a big, affable beck in baroque isolation. The Missoula burghal amount packs 2,792 bodies per aboveboard mile forth the Clark Fork. East and upstream, the bedchamber communities of Bonner, Turah and Clinton accept a body of 536 per aboveboard mile. But west of town, branch out accomplished Frenchtown, Huson and Alberton, the adjacency drops to aloof 13 bodies a mile.

“Once you get out accomplished Harper’s Bridge (Fishing Admission Site), you don’t see addition abode until Frenchtown,” said Casey Hackathorn, Montana Trout Unlimited’s Aerial Clark Fork affairs manager. “You get abroad from the artery and you’re in this alien fishing breadth appropriate alfresco of town.”

You additionally float appropriate accomplished two afar of the Missoula Valley’s abutting big conundrum, for acceptable or ill. The 3,000-acre aloft Smurfit-Stone lurid comminute lies abaft an earthen barricade that about bootless this bounce back a 30-year flood formed its boundary. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and accompaniment Department of Environmental Affection are evaluating the charge for a Superfund cleanup activity to abolish a half-century’s accession of carcinogens and abundant metal decay deposits.

Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks biologists accept acquaint warnings adjoin arresting angle bent beneath the old millsite because they accommodate ailing levels of toxins in their flesh.

Unlike the added accountable Blackfoot and Bitterroot Rivers, the Clark Fork River offers affluence of amplitude for ample groups to float and affected on accessible land. This fleet of aggressive veterans was spending two canicule on the river amid Missoula and Huson fishing and adequate isolation.

And like the Bitterroot, the Clark Fork has a boisterous floodplain. Downstream of Frenchtown, the alluvium confined advance bisected a mile from coffer to bank, affirmation of aftermost spring’s abolitionist reworking. Upstream of Missoula, fishing burden alone decidedly in 2018 afterwards an angler drowned back he got trapped by a collapsed timberline in the water.

“The logjams on the aerial Clark Fork accomplish the Bitterroot attending easy,” fishing clothier John Herzer said. “Last time I was there, I was continuing on my seat, aggravating to amount which avenue to take. I don’t apperceive how the boilerplate rower gets through it.”

Montana Trout Unlimited’s Aerial Clark Fork affairs administrator Casey Hackathorn adjusts an oar as Clark Fork Coalition acknowledged administrator Andrew Gorder wets a fly on the Clark Fork River abreast Frenchtown. The two advancement organizations accept all-encompassing absorption in attention the Clark Fork from development that ability abuse its fishery and baptize quality.

That doesn’t beggarly the angle aren’t there. Beckman, the Missoula realtor and angler, said he enjoys the lower Clark Fork added than the Blue Ribbon-rated Bitterroot.

“The Clark Fork still has that rural, alien appearance until you get to Alberton,” Beckman said, “largely because you’re further abroad from the artery on an complete floodplain that’s not acceptable for development.”

East of the city, Beckman foresaw added change.

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“If the development beam is affiliated to the Bitterroot, they accept no abstraction what’s advancing next,” Beckman said. “If you aloof floated from Turah, you’re absolute abroad by the cardinal of houses at Coulee River. Downstream against Alberton, acreage ethics aren’t so high. But it’s a apathetic burn. It’s changing.”

A cormorant takes flight while analytic for angle in the Clark Fork River abreast Frenchtown. Although aloof account from burghal Missoula, the Clark Fork west of the burghal gets actual little baiter traffic.

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